Polaris IQ Racer
Tuning, Modifying & Troubleshooting
Please also read the entire
Join our facebook group Polaris IQR AxysR trail conversion group
Caution: Please take a few minutes to read
through all of these notes. We have many hours of technical testing to come to these recommendations. If
you still have questions that we have not answered on these pages and
you are a current customer then
please click here for
|Many of the Polaris carb adaptors separate between the
rubber and the metal and/or crack out. See picture 1. They will suck
air and cause a lean condition and can blow your engine. Remove
the carbs and check yours. The ones we offer are the newest updated
ones and thicker than the stock ones. See picture 2. NOTE: For engine
serial #'s 0120327300140-0120327302497 replace both adaptors and if
your out of that serial number range don't think your ok-check your
Carb adaptors available here
|440 Carb Piston valve
cutaway, 2.5 (aka carb slides)
These are famous for wearing down and cracking on the engine side
followed by pieces breaking off and getting sucked through you engine.
Check yours and replace them if they are cracked or warn.
Many of the motor mounts used after 5 years old and
especially on the '05-'07 IQ 440's
warp and are no longer centered up. If your having belt/clutch problems or
cant get the clutches to align then check yours.
|600HO carb boots
The carb boots that come on the 600RR and others that
many people are using on the 600HO's in the IQ racer chassis make it
very difficult to put the air box back in. We use a different set of
boots that stay in the air box and slide right on the carbs. Install
with the flush side out.
||Air box info:
Air box mod
Make sure your air box strap is tight. You can remount the double
rivet higher up on the box or go below and double up the strap under
the lower air box bracket then double tie strap it. make sure your
bracket is not bent back allowing the air box to rub. Next trick is to
put a 1/4" rubber pad underneath the gas tank in the front to help
space it up a little and allow the air box to be removed and
installed easier. Put your hand in the box and lift up on the carbs
|Additional info on Reeds:
Many people doing 440 to 600 conversions are removing the 440 V-Force
reeds and putting them in the 600's. This is ok however your should
proper stuffer. Example of the larger
600 stuffer up against the 440 stuffer in the (top picture). The proper 3
petal reed valves from V-Force are
and come with the 100 thousands spacer kit. Although rare, some may
also need to do a case mod (bottom picture) if you are running out of
fuel at full throttle because the fuel pump cant pump enough. This
helps the pulse line fitting by grinding out a groove into the case.
This modification should only be performed by a professional.
||Team secondary spacer/washer part # 11. If yours
is grooved its time for a new one.
recommend the Delrin washers for your secondary spring.
Eliminates friction from spring contact with retaining cup in Team
sold in a 3 pack
||Primary spring break?
Many the new Polaris clutches have sharp edges on the jam nuts that
are not tapered that will need to be carefully ground down with a
Dremel or air grinder. Remember, this is a balance unit so you need to
remove the same amount from all sides. If you have the tools and
access to a lathe you can taper it but you will still need to remove
any sharp edges. This will prevent the primary springs from being
scored/scratched until they break. Many of the manufactures will
warranty the first broken spring if you call them.
||Skis, For trail riding I recommend the stock Polaris
snow cross ski, IQ2 or Pro-Steer. The stock snox ski has a full length carbide that is the same one
Polaris has used for 12 years now so they are easy to find. Many of the
C&A skis push snow on the keel and the start of the carbide. On
certain skis this can toss you all over the place while your riding
them. The wider Skis seem to be worse. Remember, the snow cross guys
are usually in deep artificial snow and need the lift.
Skis available here.
inject your IQR for trail riding?
Your engine will last twice as long with oil injection as long as it
is an option 2 or 3 from JS Powersports or any for engines that have
check valves already in the case. Even the Polaris race dept
recommends it on all cross country (xc) and distance racing sleds.
They got the original info from JS Powersports to use and have been
running/recommending it ever since. In normal racing as this sled was
designed for there are usually short bursts of throttle an on the
track for less than
15 minutes at a time and then the engines are overhauled at least once
a year. If your blazing down the trail and holding constant then you
are stressing the engine for longer that it was intended to use to.
Sure they are strong engines but you should protect them if you want
them to last. Now the newer sleds, '15 and up, even come with the
check valves in the block for easy set up. First 2 pictures are of a
good worming gear and cross shaft. Last 2 are of warn ones that have
about 3-4k miles on them without oil injection. Normally an engine
with oil injection will go 8-10k miles before they look like that.
Only reason I have ever seen an oil injection pump fail after 25+
years of wrenching professionally is if you run it out of oil.
I can explain how the premix barely lubes the cross shaft through a
small hole at the top of the case and the small off center slot at the
bottom or you can just imagine oil injection dripping directly on it
making it last longer. Kits can be ordered here:
Link to the original oil Injection
kits from us.
Why you should buy the original oil injection kit from us- video:
click to enlarge
|Oil injection pumps
Recently we have seen and heard of a few sleds that
were leaking 2 cycle oil on the ground while in storage. I strongly
recommend everyone checking the air bleeder screw on the end of the
oil injection pump on the right hand side. The last 2 brand new ones
we got in from Polaris to install were lose.
We do not recommend plugging any of the oil injection lines. The pump
can and usually will blow the plug off and leak oil. We are hearing of to many guys using a
screw or bolt to plug the extra oil line and the oil will still get
pushed through the threads and leak. We actually recommend putting a T
fitting in the line instead
of a plug.
While your at it check to make sure the index marks are set correctly.
Adjust the cable if necessary.
Also, while were talking about 2 cycle oil leaks there are also some
people who are not running a gasket under the oil tank cap that is causing
leaks and a few others that have not run a vent tube properly or one
at all on the oil tank. We recommend running a vent tube down the steering loop bar on the
right hand rear side until it goes below the oil tank a few inches and
then putting in a easy bend and running it back up slightly past the
top of the oil tank and then turning the tube in a downward position
before attaching with zip ties, just snug. Be sure you don't kink the
line or over tighten the zip ties. This will allow the vent to work
but yet not leak out too much oil when the sled is on its side or upside down
if that were to happen.
Oil isn't cheap so have a look and correct if necessary.
||Track to tight and the adjusters all the way out?
||Bogie wheel bolt touching shock reservoir?
||Engine sluggish or running hot? Supplement Rear
Heat Exchanger can be found on
||Fuel tank hard to reinstall-expanded?
You must remove the nuts riveted to the seat skirt to mount this
We strongly recommend the short
||Electrical issues causing sled to not run right?
||Sled wont pull full RPM's?
Check your reeds, power valves, carbs
and clutches. You defiantly have a problem if your not turning full
RPM or close to it. Chasing the last 200 RPM's may be a waste of time
if the sled is running good because many of the tachs are off by up to
200 RPM's. What your looking for is bad carb adaptors, broken reeds,
stuck power valves or ripped diaphragms, plugged carbs or a stuck
choke (should be able to slide a penny under the choke lever), and
on the clutches, make sure the weight bushings are tight and not
rubbing the spider as they move outward. Check the rollers. Check for
broken springs and broken rollers in the secondary too.
||Fine tuning the low end
Needle and seat o rings may be bad.
|No brapp brapp?
delivery and Spark testing, troubleshooting