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Polaris IQ Racer
Tuning, Modifying & Troubleshooting |
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| Caution: Please take a few minutes to read through all of these notes. We have many hours of technical testing to come to these recommendations. If you still have questions that we have not answered on these pages and you are a current customer then please click here for tech support. | |
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Many of the Polaris carb adaptors separate between the
rubber and the metal and/or crack out. See picture 1. They will suck
air and cause a lean condition and can blow your engine. Remove
the carbs and check yours. The ones we offer are the newest updated
ones and thicker than the stock ones. See picture 2. NOTE: For engine
serial #'s 0120327300140-0120327302497 replace both adaptors and if
your out of that serial number range don't think your ok-check your
adaptors. Carb adaptors available here |
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440 Carb Piston valve
cutaway, 2.5 (aka carb slides) These are famous for wearing down and cracking on the engine side followed by pieces breaking off and getting sucked through you engine. Check yours and replace them if they are cracked or warn. available here |
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IQ 440/600
Motor Mounts
Many of the motor mounts used after 5 years old and especially on the '05-'07 IQ 440's warp and are no longer centered up. If your having belt/clutch problems or cant get the clutches to align then check yours. available here |
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600HO carb boots The carb boots that come on the 600RR and others that many people are using on the 600HO's in the IQ racer chassis make it very difficult to put the air box back in. We use a different set of boots that stay in the air box and slide right on the carbs. Install with the flush side out. available here |
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Air box info:
600R/RR
Air box mod Make sure your air box strap is tight. You can remount the double rivet higher up on the box or go below and double up the strap under the lower air box bracket then double tie strap it. make sure your bracket is not bent back allowing the air box to rub. Next trick is to put a 1/4" rubber pad underneath the gas tank in the front to help space it up a little and allow the air box to be removed and installed easier. Put your hand in the box and lift up on the carbs while installing. |
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Additional info on Reeds: Many people doing 440 to 600 conversions are removing the 440 V-Force reeds and putting them in the 600's. This is ok however your should use the proper stuffer. Example of the larger 600 stuffer up against the 440 stuffer in the (top picture). The proper 3 petal reed valves from V-Force are here and come with the 100 thousands spacer kit. Although rare, some may also need to do a case mod (bottom picture) if you are running out of fuel at full throttle because the fuel pump cant pump enough. This helps the pulse line fitting by grinding out a groove into the case. This modification should only be performed by a professional. |
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Team secondary spacer/washer part # 11. If yours is grooved its time for a new one. We also recommend the Delrin washers for your secondary spring. Available here |
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Delrin Washers Eliminates friction from spring contact with retaining cup in Team secondary clutches sold in a 3 pack Available here |
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Primary spring break? Many the new Polaris clutches have sharp edges on the jam nuts that are not tapered that will need to be carefully ground down with a Dremel or air grinder. Remember, this is a balance unit so you need to remove the same amount from all sides. If you have the tools and access to a lathe you can taper it but you will still need to remove any sharp edges. This will prevent the primary springs from being scored/scratched until they break. Many of the manufactures will warranty the first broken spring if you call them. |
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Skis, For trail riding I recommend the stock Polaris
snow cross ski, IQ2 or Pro-Steer. The stock snox ski has a full length carbide that is the same one
Polaris has used for 12 years now so they are easy to find. Many of the
C&A skis push snow on the keel and the start of the carbide. On
certain skis this can toss you all over the place while your riding
them. The wider Skis seem to be worse. Remember, the snow cross guys
are usually in deep artificial snow and need the lift.
Skis available here. |
 New  New  Worn  Worn |
Why oil
inject your IQR for trail riding?
Your engine will last twice as long with oil injection as long as it
is an option 2 or 3 from JS Powersports or any for engines that have
check valves already in the case. Even the Polaris race dept
recommends it on all cross country (xc) and distance racing sleds.
They got the original info from JS Powersports to use and have been
running/recommending it ever since. In normal racing as this sled was
designed for there are usually short bursts of throttle an on the
track for less than
15 minutes at a time and then the engines are overhauled at least once
a year. If your blazing down the trail and holding constant then you
are stressing the engine for longer that it was intended to use to.
Sure they are strong engines but you should protect them if you want
them to last. Now the newer sleds, '15 and up, even come with the
check valves in the block for easy set up. First 2 pictures are of a
good worming gear and cross shaft. Last 2 are of warn ones that have
about 3-4k miles on them without oil injection. Normally an engine
with oil injection will go 8-10k miles before they look like that.
Only reason I have ever seen an oil injection pump fail after 25+
years of wrenching professionally is if you run it out of oil.
I can explain how the premix barely lubes the cross shaft through a
small hole at the top of the case and the small off center slot at the
bottom or you can just imagine oil injection dripping directly on it
making it last longer. Kits can be ordered here:
Link to the original oil Injection
kits from us. Why you should buy the original oil injection kit from us- video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPEEAzYH5EE&t=1s |
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Oil injection pumps Recently we have seen and heard of a few sleds that were leaking 2 cycle oil on the ground while in storage. I strongly recommend everyone checking the air bleeder screw on the end of the oil injection pump on the right hand side. The last 2 brand new ones we got in from Polaris to install were lose. We do not recommend plugging any of the oil injection lines. The pump can and usually will blow the plug off and leak oil. We are hearing of to many guys using a screw or bolt to plug the extra oil line and the oil will still get pushed through the threads and leak. We actually recommend putting a T fitting in the line instead of a plug. While your at it check to make sure the index marks are set correctly. Adjust the cable if necessary. Also, while were talking about 2 cycle oil leaks there are also some people who are not running a gasket under the oil tank cap that is causing leaks and a few others that have not run a vent tube properly or one at all on the oil tank. We recommend running a vent tube down the steering loop bar on the right hand rear side until it goes below the oil tank a few inches and then putting in a easy bend and running it back up slightly past the top of the oil tank and then turning the tube in a downward position before attaching with zip ties, just snug. Be sure you don't kink the line or over tighten the zip ties. This will allow the vent to work but yet not leak out too much oil when the sled is on its side or upside down if that were to happen. Oil isn't cheap so have a look and correct if necessary. |
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Track to tight and the adjusters all the way out? click here |
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Bogie wheel bolt touching shock reservoir? click here |
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Engine sluggish or running hot? Supplement Rear Heat Exchanger can be found on this page |
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Fuel tank hard to reinstall-expanded?
click here Fuel leaking click here Trail Tank |
| Electrical issues causing sled to not run right? click here | |
| Sled wont pull full RPM's? Check your reeds, power valves, carbs and clutches. You defiantly have a problem if your not turning full RPM or close to it. Chasing the last 200 RPM's may be a waste of time if the sled is running good because many of the tachs are off by up to 200 RPM's. What your looking for is bad carb adaptors, broken reeds, stuck power valves or ripped diaphragms, plugged carbs or a stuck choke (should be able to slide a penny under the choke lever), and on the clutches, make sure the weight bushings are tight and not rubbing the spider as they move outward. Check the rollers. Check for broken springs and broken rollers in the secondary too. |
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Fine tuning the low end click here |
| Leaking Fuel?
Video here Needle and seat o rings may be bad. Purchase here |
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No brapp brapp? |
Fuel delivery and Spark testing, troubleshooting |
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