|
|
| Please
take a few minutes to read through all of these notes. We have
countless hours in research and development to bring all of this
information to you. All we ask in return is that you make your
purchases with us so we can continue to expand this site. If you still have questions that we
have not answered on these pages then please click on the link above
for tech support |
We highly recommend running the rear heat exchanger to cool your engine
more especially on the 440's and for the longevity of your engine. Most
engines will feel sluggish after wide open throttle without this.
Rear heat exchanger installation:
There are actually 2 ways to install the cooler. One puts all the cooler
outlets in a line and using the template puts the new cooler 1/2" further
back on the sled and slightly stretches the hoses. The pictures will
reflect using the template and mounting it about a 1/2" further back than
the other way but determine what is best for you prior to starting this
project. Use safety glasses when drilling and cutting.
Use a narrow punch to tap out the center of any rivets you need to drill.
Place some tape across the top of the tunnel to catch any shavings. Keep a
shop vac close so you can clean up often. Use a 3/16" drill bit to drill
out the rivets on the crossover hose cover. Go slow and if any rivets spin
then attach a pair of vise grips to the bottom side of them. Then drill
out the 3 rivets shown below. Next, use the gasket foam in the cooler kit
to line up and mark on the tunnel where you will need to cut. Do not use
the template unless you modify it to fit the existing coolers and align it
with the rear to rivets you just removed. Remove the cross over hose
and either tape off the openings or use the 2 new hoses to cover the
holes. Drill a hole just in from each corner using a 3/8" drill bit. Cut
out the rectangle you just marked using a jig saw. Its a single layer of
tunnel. using a wood block may help you get around the protruding tubes.
Go slow and if you feel extra resistance you may be cutting into one of
the existing cooling rails. This is easier if the seat is removed. Its
also best to not cut out each corner until all the sides are cut. This
will add some support and stop the piece from bouncing while cutting the
rest of it out. Make sure the cooler fits all the way down in the hole
especially at the front and rear of the hole. Before you pop in any rivets
make sure you put the gasket in place. We like to set but not pop the 2
rivets in the rear into place while we drill out the front ones. We also
place the 2 new hoses on to help cover and stabilize the cooler while
drilling. Always have the open tubes covered while cutting or drilling.
Then we place the gasket/seal in place and pop in the front and rear
rivets. Then drill the rest of them out and pop all the rivet in place.
Then remove the tape or hoses and fill with 70/30 mix of coolant or add
more engine ice if your using that. Next, we like to cut down the long
side of the 2 new hoses 1" and then place them on the coolers with there
clamps. (you will need to use the 2 clamps off the old cross over hose)
Next, place the old cover on top of the new cooler and mark where to cut
it so you can replace it. Then cut it out and put in in place. When your
happy with the fit then pop the 3 rear rivets into place and then drill 2
new holes right next to the new cooler being careful to not drill into the
2 existing coolers or any rivets and then pop the 2 new rivets into place.
Clean up and replace the seat. You will need to elevate the front of the
sled and run it to bleed out all the air in the coolant system. A hill of
ditch works good for this. You will usually need to add around 6oz of
coolant once the bubbles work their way out.
Rear heat exchanger available
here


 
JS Powersports LLC is a registered trademark. Any use of the name or logo
is strictly forbidden.
All website content is protected under United States copyright laws
|