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Team Secondary
Clutch Spacer:
When the sled starts moving everything in the secondary clutch is spinning
as well. When the clutch opens up the washer/spacer is no longer binding
and is rotating as well. It is rubbing against the adjuster bolt and
sheave as it goes back and fourth just very slightly and may be causing
some slight wear. The the real problem is when you let off and the spring
pressure rams the washer against the adjuster. This is what is causing the
most damage as the inner sheave rotates back into place on your helix.
This is where the binding is actually taking place. This should not be
affecting top rpm at all. When you take your clutch apart you will most
likely notice belt and roller debris inside. Cleaning this debris out from
binding up in there could be gaining you the extra rpm or it could just be
that all the snow has melted down and is really fast with little
resistance right now if your in a place that just had this warm weather
and rain. I just tested 4 IQ's after inspection and fix and did not gain
any rpm's. The cultchs were already clean from recently being apart during
regular service or making changes.
To fix this binding and grooving issue on either clutch we really need a
Teflon washer (which we are searching for, just been very busy lately)
another fix is to add another washer in there if you have room to move
your adjuster out. Most do. Also for everyone, take your adjuster out and
L tool and grind down the points on both almost up to the threads so it
provides more of a flat surface and less of a point with sharp edges. Once
you have ground it down a bit take it to the wire brush so there are not
any sharp edges. If there are sharp edges, like there usually are from the
factory, it will be working like a tool cuter in a lathe. The reverse
thing, yes you can defiantly cause damage by turning in the adjuster while
your rollers are stuck in the reverse portion of the helix. I would have
thought you would have felt some pretty good amount of pressure while you
were screwing in your clutch L tool and stop to wonder why but if you
didn't understand how the helix worked that would explain it. The tool is
a hand tool and you should not have to use a cheater bar or pliers on it
to open the sheaves on the secondary. No worries, we are all human and do
error. In this case, we would be doing the damage before we got the clutch
off to inspect to see how it worked-so I'm defending all of us when we do
something like this. Just as kids (most of us) tearing apart all our toys
to see how they worked. It was very educational however our parents were
not always thrilled. |