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Caution: Reading sucks but please do it. We
took a lot of time to spell this all out and its available 24/7 so
please use these pages as a reference to your questions before
calling. We only offer product/technical support to current customers
and only for items we have sold to you or you are currently purchasing
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The list below are notes, settings, specifications, adjustments, and
modifications we used trail converting the Polaris IQ 440 to a 600HO. '06
600HO was used with engine wire harness, fuel pump and all sensors. Swap
mounting plates and it drops right in. You will also need to do new
exhaust, clutch weights and springs, oil tank and regear.
If you do this right your new ride could be the most
fun you have ever had on a sled
JETTING INFO:
Before you start, pull your needle and seats out of the carbs
and check in the carb inlet to insure there are not any plastic shavings
from the installation of the plastic fuel fittings on the rack carbs.
Many settings are similar to the 600RR
Elevation 500ft, normal riding temperature 10-30 degrees.
Jetting 400mains from -10 to +30 degrees Fahrenheit 0-200ft of
elevation (some guys are using 380-420) (stock was 440-450) starter 145,
pilot 45 (most have a stock 50 pilot), paj 0.7 (most have stock 0.6 paj
and the change makes a big difference at idle) fuel screw at .5-1.5 turns
out.
Needle Jet, J8-9DGN06-57(stock on 600HO) e clip on #3 or #2
position on warmer days.
V Force 3 reeds (3132b 904cage) with recommended stuffers and .100 spacers
(V Force reeds have slightly larger than stock stuffers but cage is 3/8"
shorter from top to bottom. A case mod is necessary for running the V
force reeds in a 600HO.
Top RPM should be 8200 to 8300 but you may still run good even at only
7800 peak RPM
High altitude settings 8-10,000ft elevation: 250-300mains
145starter 35pilot with stock needle and e clip on #1. Some are using a
different needle #9FH4-57-this one is wider at the tip, so leaner all the
way through.
Special note: Check your carb adaptors on all 440
and 600 engines. Many have separated between the rubber and metal and will
leak air causing a lean condition resulting in a blown engine. Polaris
actually had a recall for them on the 600HO's. Replace defectives with the
upgraded ones here.
DRIVETRAIN AND GEARING:
Gearing Chart
1 Gearing Chart 2
Stock 600RR gearing is hyvo 22:39 and will run about 90mph in great
conditions according to the radar. We are running the same gearing and
hitting the same speed. The Polaris book says it should run 98 +/- a
little at 8300rpm but I think the book is always about 10% high.
Primary Clutch 10-58 (10-58 could over rev a little at prolong top
speed) to 10-62 weights (10-60 our current favorite) and 165-310 spring or
higher.
TSS98 Team secondary clutch with a Team Helix 66-44-42er (er for
reverse) .46/.25/.25 Helix (stock 440 was a 66/44-.46) and a 140-240,
155-222(stock RR one) or 160-240 spring. If your looking for more
low end, try a Polaris silver/yellow 160-280 or 160-300.
TSS44 Team secondary clutch-I would use the 66/44-.46 Helix with
one of the springs previously mentioned.
Driven Clutch extras-On either set up I recommend 3 Delrin washers
to minimize friction. (3pk is $10)
And now that I have given out all my secrets I will probably get beat at
the drag races this year. Yes, I'm talking to you Brandon. All in good
spirits and you'll be buying the first round.
High altitude settings 8-10,000ft elevation: Primary spring 120-340
or 120-300 or 140-300. Clutch weights 10-54 and gear to a 2.05 ratio.
SKIS and CARBIDES:
We took off the C&A skis to change to the Polaris stock snocross ski. Skis
area available here.
We did this to get a full length carbide and also so they are easy to
find/replace at any local shop along the trail. We have used 8 and 10"
carbides. The 8's steer easier but the 10's do give more control in most
situations.
SUSPENSION:
Shocks have been revalved with specs from Walker evans. (close to pro x
800 set up) The set up works awesome for a 180lbs rider. Our last ones
were done by Diamond Shocks and also work great.
'07 torsion springs or titanium ones are best for the rebound on the rear
skid. The stock front track spring was a 160# and we put on a 140# one for
a softer ride. We also did a 150# for the arms instead of the stock 170#s
on most models. This set up is pretty comfortable on the trail and still
allows the rider to catch some air without bottoming out to bad. We also
put on the 07 front limiter straps to allow the front of the track to
touch the ground and relive a little ski pressure. Drill out the next
lower front torque arm mounting location on the tunnel and lower the arm
and recheck your limiter straps. If the track is too tight remove the 2
outside plastic spacer blocks and grind them down in the front including
the front portion of the raised square portion to allow the spacer blocks
to move further forward before they hit the adjuster bolts. If that
doesn't solve the track tension then you may have to cut away some
material from the rail to allow the rear axel to move further forward. At
some point your wheels may touch the rear bumper pivot arm. If so move the
arm forward to the next hole. We add 6 wheels to the suspensions to
eliminate hifax wear. We recommend at least 4.
Track: We fully clip all our tracks or buy them that way and always use
tall nuts on the studs with double backer plates for more stability.
ENGINE:
Left it stock and plugged the lines coming off the exhaust valves-not
using the solenoid. We usually remove the thermostat and reuse the grommet
to seal it or put in a 440 gasket. Either method seems to work fine. We
normally plug the lower bypass outlet. Some guys are using the lower
bypass plug and adding in an extra t fitting and running it or a different
coolant bottle with 3 fittings.
Rerouting the hoses to do the front cooler first from the bypass hose and
then the rear cooler after the t stat is probably the best way to do it.
No matter what you do add the rear cooler!
ELECTRICAL: wiring diagram
Best timing seems to be 28degrees BTDC.
Its best to have the schematics or a service manual when doing
any wiring. On the 600HO's in
production model sleds they use a voltage regulator that produces 12vdc to
run the exhaust valve solenoids and maybe some display stuff as well. The
voltage regulator that comes on the production models outputs 12vac and
12vdc. The 600RR system uses a 12vdc lead coming from the stock voltage
regulator. The plug on the harness for the exhaust valve solenoid
has a red/white wire and a white/yellow wire. The red/white wire is 12vdc
from the converter in plug position j. The white/yellow wire goes to
position e23 of the cdi plug position g. The cdi closes this to ground to
open the solenoid when you start up. The solenoid is energized until you
reach 6800 rpm then it closes allowing just compression pressure to open
the valves. The gray wire from the purple cdi plug works the perc reverse.
You can use your dragon button and put the other side/wire to ground or
any brown wire. The two pin plug (black/white&white/black) use to plug
into the 440 cdi for the dragon button may also need to be used for the
temp light to work. My sources tell me to tie the black/white wire to the
blue/white wire in position e24 from the cdi box to make the temp light
work. Using the stock 440 regulator
your charging coil will produce about 7-14vac. You can also rig up lights
for low oil indicator, if you buy a stock oil tank with the sensor, and
reverse. Some lighting can be done in the stock 440 tach but you may have
to add bulbs first. Most of the indicator lights need a power wire and
then the sensors or CDI will make a ground at the right time to complete
the circuit and light up the light.
EXTRAS:
We always add the extra rear heat exchanger.
We also used a Polaris handlebar bag for any extras. There are a variety
of aftermarket ones available
here. Skinz just made a low profile tank/map bag, rear tunnel paks
and great knee pads.
Gears belt guard or clutch cover bag with the metal inside removed this
will hold 2 quick to mix bottles plus some extras and you spare belt
Velcro's on around it.
Skid plate-The Polaris Fusion will work but needs slight modification.
WPS under hood bag
Polaris handguards and mounts
RSI handle bar pad
Skinz rear bumper
cargo net
Polaris now has a quick steer/easy steer system available for $425
*** '08 600RR main specifications***
5136327 Helix Ramp, Driven 60/42-36, ER
7043063 SPRING-DRIVEN, CLUTCH, BLACK, LH The spring is a 155-222
Gearing is a 22-39
450 mains 145 starter and 35 pilot
*** '06 Fusion 600HO main specifications***
Primary spring black/green 120-340 (Ok hole shot but really fast
half way down the track till finish line-700ft)
5135256 Ramp, Driven 64/42-.36 7043058 Spring, Driven
Clutch, Red/Black
Gearing is 23-39 after inspection (the microfiche and owners manual say
two different things)
Main jet 420, starter 145, pilot 50 and paj 0.6
All the parts listed above are
available form us and most are
HERE


 
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